ग्राउंड रिपोर्ट: 'घोस्ट कैपिटल' में मुश्किल से क्या मिलता है?

Updated: Thu, 30 Nov 2017 (11:29 IST)

- नितिन श्रीवास्तव (म्यांमार)

यहाँ की 20 लेन वाली सड़कों पर दो हवाई जहाज़ एक साथ, अगल-बगल, लैंड कर सकते हैं। इस शहर में 100 से भी ज़्यादा चमचमाते होटल चल रहे हैं। मखमल सी बिछाई गई घास वाले दर्जनों गोल्फ़-कोर्स आपका दिल जीत लेंगे। कई किलोमीटर तक फैले यहाँ के ज़ू में पेंग्विन्स भी रहती हैं।

ये अनोखा शहर चार हज़ार वर्ग किलोमीटर में फैला बताया जाता है। बस एक ही चीज़ है जो यहाँ मुश्किल से और ढूँढने पर दिखती है- इंसान! ये बर्मा की नई राजधानी नेपिडो है जो देश की सत्ता का गढ़ भी है। म्यांमार की इस नई-चमचमाती राजधानी को बनाने में क़रीब 26,000 करोड़ रुपए खर्च हुए थे। यहाँ न कभी ट्रैफ़िक जाम लगता है और न ही कोई शोर-शराबा है।

सदियों से म्यांमार (बर्मा) की राजधानी मांडले थी जिसे 1948 में यांगोन (तब रंगून) शिफ़्ट कर दिया गया था। लेकिन साल 2000 के आसपास म्यांमार से काफ़ी दूर हुई एक लड़ाई ने फ़ौजी जनरलों को सोचने पर मजबूर कर दिया।

राजधानी बदली

वरिष्ठ पत्रकार और दक्षिण-पूर्व एशियाई मामलों के जानकार सुबीर भौमिक इन दिनों यांगोन में रहते हैं। उन्होंने बताया, "दूसरे इराक़ युद्ध शुरू होने के पहले ऐसा माहौल बना था, कई देशों पर सैंक्शन्स वगैरह लगे थे तब बर्मा की मिलिट्री को लगा कि अगर हमला हुआ तो यांगोन पर तो फ़ट से कब्ज़ा हो जाएगा।

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मैरीन्स यहाँ आएँगे और कब्ज़ा कर लेंगे क्योंकि शहर तट पर है। इसलिए उन्हें लगा कि राजधानी यहाँ से हटानी चाहिए। यहाँ की फ़ौज और आम जनता ज्योतिष पर बहुत यकीन रखते हैं। ज्योतिषियों ने कहा ये बेहतर लोकेशन है, आप लोग वहां जाएं।" म्यांमार दुनिया के उन कम देशों में है जिसने पिछले दशकों के दौरान राजधानी बदली है।

2006 के बाद से नेपिडो ही राजधानी हैं और सभी मंत्रालय, सुप्रीम कोर्ट, फौजी जनरल और स्टेट काउंसलर आंग सान सू ची भी यहीं बस चुकी हैं। जब ये शिफ्टिंग हुई तब नई राजधानी नेपिडो की तुलना किसी 'घोस्ट कैपिटल या 'भुतहा शहर' से की गई थी।

विश्लेषकों ने तत्कालीन फ़ौजी शासकों के इस फ़ैसले की आलोचना करते हुआ कहा था, "गरीबी से जूझते इस देश को हज़ारों-करोड़ डॉलर एक नई राजधानी पर लुटाने की क्या ज़रूरत थी"। शायद तभी से म्यांमार सरकार इस नए शहर को लेकर थोड़ी ज़्यादा ही सतर्कता बरतती है।

कड़े नियम

संसद के बाहर सड़क पर हमने वीडियो कैमरा निकाला ही था कि एक पुलिस वाले ने आकर हमें बगल की चौकी पहुँचने के आदेश दे दिए। 20 मिनट पूछताछ के बाद जाने दिया लेकिन हल्की चेतावनी के साथ, "जर्नलिस्ट वीज़ा है तब भी, आप लोग यहाँ वीडियो नहीं बना सकते"।

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चाहे सरकारी कर्मचारी हों या टैक्सी-बस वाले, इस अनोखे शहर में सभी कहते हैं कि बड़े खुश हैं। बात ये भी है कि म्यांमार में दशकों तक रहे फौजी शासन के चलते मीडिया की मौजूदगी नहीं के बराबर रही है। 2011 के बाद से देश में राजनीतिक सुधारों का सिलसिला शुरू होने के बाद ही लोगों में मीडिया के प्रति जागरूकता बढ़ी है। लेकिन अभी भी ज़्यादातर लोग खुल कर बात करने के बजाय हर चीज़ की 'तारीफ़' करना पसंद करते हैं। सिवाय एक शख़्स के जो हमें नेपिडो की एक बड़ी सरकारी कॉलोनी के बाहर मिले।

तुन औंग और उनकी पत्नी एक रेस्टोरेंट चलाते हैं। उन्होंने कहा, "हम लोग म्यांमार के शान राज्य के रहने वाले हैं और चार साल पहले यहाँ रोज़गार की तलाश में आए थे। बिज़नेस तो थोड़ा जमने लगा है लेकिन यहाँ अच्छे कॉलेज नहीं हैं तो हमें अपने दोनों बच्चों को दूसरे शहर में रिश्तेदारों के पास भेजना पड़ा।"

दूतावास यांगोन में

म्यांमार में सभी विदेशी दूतावास अब भी यांगोन में है और नेपिडो जाने में उन्हें कोई दिलचस्पी नहीं। सबसे बड़ा शहर होने के अलावा यांगून देश की कॉमर्शियल कैपिटल भी है।

इधर, नेपिडो में ये ढूंढ़ना मुश्किल भी नहीं कि राजधानी शिफ्ट करने का फ़ैसला किनका रहा होगा। शहर में हर तरफ़ फ़ौज का 'जलवा' साफ़ पता चलता है। ख़ास ध्यान देते हुए एक मिलिट्री म्यूज़ियम बनाया गया है जो हज़ारों एकड़ में फैला है।

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अस्त्र-शस्त्र के अलावा करोड़ों रुपए खर्च करके, न सिर्फ़ म्यांमार, बल्कि दुनिया भर से प्लेन लाए गए हैं जिसमें द्वितीय विश्व युद्ध के ख़तरनाक 'स्पिटफ़ायर' और वियतनाम वार में इस्तेमाल हुए 'जंबो हेलीकॉप्टर' भी खड़े है। लेकिन हक़ीक़त ये है कि इन्हें देखने के लिए यहाँ बहुत कम लोग आते हैं।

हालांकि नेपिडो में हमारी मुलाक़ात देश के केंद्रीय मंत्री विन म्यात आए से हुई और उन्होंने इस बात को सिरे से ख़ारिज किया कि शहर 'घोस्ट कैपिटल' है। "अगर 2007 में आप मुझसे ये सवाल करते तो मैं मान भी लेता। अब नहीं। अभी तो यहाँ जो आते हैं, वो यहीं के होकर रह जाते हैं। यहाँ न तो प्रदूषण है, न ही ट्रैफ़िक की मारामारी और न ही घरों की दिक्कत।"

बहरहाल, शहर का सबसे बड़ा शॉपिंग मॉल भी ज़्यादातर खाली ही पड़ा रहता है। अंदर जाकर तस्वीरें लेने पर रोक है, लेकिन दुनिया के टॉप ब्रांड्स यहाँ ज़रूर मिलते हैं। फ़िलहाल तो राजधानी के साथ यहां भेजे गए सरकारी नौकर ही ख़रीददार हैं।